Santa Domingo on the Camino Frances
is where one of the most famous of the legends of the Camino is said to
have happened. In the 14th century
an 18-year old German boy was walking the Camino with his parents. When they
reached Santo Domingo they stayed in the hostel where a girl, possibly the
owner’s daughter or maybe just a servant girl who worked in the hostel or an
inn (different versions of the story give her different positions), made
advances toward him which he spurned. Angered by this the girl decided to get her
own back and so she hid a silver cup in the boy’s bag before he left the hostel
and then reported it missing.
The boy
and his parents were stopped and searched and the cup found in the boy’s
pocession. The boy protested his innocence but was hung for the crime as his
parents watched. They then carry on to Santiago (with great sadness you
imagine) to continue with their pilgrimage.
On their return they passed by the gallows and saw their son
still hanging there but he was alive and not dead so they ran to tell the local
magistrate who had just settled down to eat. The magistrate laughed at their
story and said, “Your son is as alive as this rooster and chicken that I was
eating before you came!” At which the two birds jumped up and started to crow
happily.
The boy was cut down and presumably went home with his parents
(although he could have continued on to Santiago to continue with his
Pilgrimage). The crow and chicken went on display in the Cathedral and a pair
can still be seen to this day in a small area to one side of the Cathedral
(they are the only animals allowed to be kept in a Cathedral despite the
efforts of many Bishops to have them removed permission was granted and remains
thanks to successive Popes). You have to hope that the girl never tried the
same trick again.
Interestingly this is
very similar to the story of the famous Portugal Rooster which has the story
happen in Barcelos at a rich landowner’s banquet where a piece of silverware is
stolen and one of the guests was accused of the robbery which he denied. He was
offered a chance to show his innocence by the magistrate and then man pointed
to a Rooster in a basket on the dining table and said, ‘If I am innocent this
cock will crow,’ at which the Rooster jumped up and crowed loudly and then man
was set free.
Another version of the
story in Portugal has a great crime being committed in the town of Barcelos for
which no culprit could be found. One day a man from Galicia came to the town on
his way to visit the nearby town to worship its Patron Saint Tiago and suspicion
fell on him so that he would be hung. He asked, as his last request, to see the
Judge who had condemned him and was asked to prove his innocence. Seeing a
Rooster in a bowl ready to be eaten he prayed to God that it would crow and
prove his innocence and since then the rooster has been a symbol of honesty.
Barcelos is a city that lies on the Camino Portuguese which may explain some of
the similarities in the stories or the same miracle could have happened twice
either way the Rooster is now an unofficial symbol of Portugal.
It's interesting that two such similar stories occur along the Caminos, maybe it has to do with so many people walking and passing the story along or maybe a similar miracle did occur twice, I don't know but maybe this reflects what Pilgrims themselves have happen - are any of our stories all that different? We all feel called to walk the Camino (or ride it) for some reason or another and we all go along battling aches and pains, meeting people, making friends, carrying all that we can to reach our goal of Santiago, there are variations of course in experience, how much we are injured, who we meet, how fast we walk and so forth but as you walk you know that everyone has the same goal and is living the same sort of life and that is a wonderful thing to experience: the similarities of stories, to be bound together in purpose, to be able to look at your fellows and see not differences but similarities, to feel the normal barriers that we all put up in our lives disappear as country of origin, age and race simply do not seem to matter, only that you are a fellow Pilgrim, a fellow human being, someone to care for and help as you can.
If only we could continue seeing the similarities among us all when we came home, after all as a wise man (The Doctor himself no less) once said: 'We're all stories in the end,' and a very similar tale all of our lives can be, we just have to be willing to recognize that - what a wonderful souvenir from the Camino that would be!
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