On the Camino

I was at school when I first heard about the Camino, somewhere around 12 years old. I was doing a school project on Pilgrimmages and we had studied the Pilgrimage to Mecca in class. To get some more information I interviewed Becky about her time in Taize and Mum told me about Stuart at Church who had walked to Santiago in Spain. I wasn't all that interested in finding out more, he was 60 or so and to me back then it seemed ancient, but I took along with he questions that I had asked Becky and did no more preparation than that, I knew nothing at all about the Camino and sat there listening to nightly rituals of washing clothes, seeing everyone sitting around and writing their diaries and miles walked each day. I heard about a route so few walked that Stuart needed a letter from our vicar saying that he was walking the route as a Christian and of reaching Santiago and having an individual interview with one if Santiago's priests that lasted nearly an hour as Stuart was questi...

A few more sellos - these are all from Triacastela onwards.

An earlier post of mine had pictures of everything that I took on the Camino (or rather everything that I could find to take pictures of!). Here's a bit of advice on packing for you. In general less is best; a lot of people take far too much and end up having to dump it or posting it forward to Santiago post office (who will then hold your items for 30 days ready for you to collect, many people have used this option and found that it works well for them but I have never myself done it). I was told before my first Camino to carry no more than 10% of your body weight which may work well for some people but as someone who weighs about 46 kilograms and is about 1m 55cm tall this is impractical – if you want to carry your own backpack all of the way then only carrying 4.6 kilograms is simply not possible. I carried a bag weighing 6-7.5 kilograms and found this to be a practical weight for me. I would say never carry more than 10 kilograms – you don’t need to and your Camino will not...

I was looking back over my diary for my first Camino (in 2009) and came across this list that I must have written after I had returned home about what I had learned whilst walking: The journey is more important then the destination Don’t make too many plans It’s good to share experiences If you don’t turn around and look back while you climb the mountain the you’ll miss the view It’s just as okay to receive as it is to give There can always be quiet times Some people have heavier loads than others Seven little things that I must try to remember still - these things can be easy to remember whilst still walking but can be difficult to remember when you return home so you have to remind yourself.

After returning from my first Camino in 2009 I did this short talk based around the five questions that you are likely to be asked at least once should you walk the Camino: 1.     Where are you from? 2.     Where did you start? 3.     How much does your bag weigh? 4.     How are your feet doing? 5.     Are you going all of the way to Santiago? Where I am from is an easy one to answer: Nottingham and that invariably brought up the subject of the man who became a constant companion on my Camino – Robin Hood because I found that never mind where people are from they have heard of him! But I did meet people from all over the world: Spain, Portugal, Canada, Australia, America, Germany, Italy, Holland and there was a feeling of everyone coming together from all over the world for a common cause, all coming together just like the symbol of the Camino the shell which used to be carried by Pilgrims on...

I'll try and keep putting up sellos for you every now and again - next year I'll hopefully have some for you from the Portuguese Camino!!

Along the Camino there are very few items that you buy as you walk simply because of the weight of them - typical tourist items are impractical but me and Becky do like collecting badges from the places that we visit (more about these in a future post probably!), our favourites depict an image of something famous in the place itself (a picture of the Church or Cathedral there maybe or an old Cross maybe). These can be seen to have quite old origins though if we look back to Pilgrim badges.   These were small badges in the mediaeval that were usually made of a base metal (that is a cheap one which was easy to work such as pewter or a lead alloy) and were made en-mass by die stamping them or moulds the idea being that they were cheap enough so that anyone could afford them.   These badges were bought as a souvenir of their pilgrimage and as a symbol to others that they had undertaken this journey – they were worn on hats or outer clothing so that, in a time when fe...

I can't seem to find any information on the history of this prayer, everywhere I look only says that it's 'ancient' which isn't much use! It does bring forth ideas of centuries of Pilgrims saying this Prayer though before they set off and on the road. It helps to remind you that you are one of many millions who have walked this path. Pilgrim prayer – O God, who brought your servant Abraham out of the land of the Chaldeans, protecting him in his wanderings, who guided the Hebrew people across the desert, we ask that you watch over us, your servants, as we walk in the love of your name to Santiago de Compostela. Be for us our companion on the walk, Our guide at the crossroads, Our breath in our weariness, Our protection in danger, Our albergue on the Camino, Our shade in the heat, Our light in the darkness, Our consolation in our discouragements, And our strength in our intentions. So that with your guidance we may arrive safe and sound at the end ...

Santa Domingo on the Camino Frances is where one of the most famous of the legends of the Camino is said to have happened. In the 14th century an 18-year old German boy was walking the Camino with his parents. When they reached Santo Domingo they stayed in the hostel where a girl, possibly the owner’s daughter or maybe just a servant girl who worked in the hostel or an inn (different versions of the story give her different positions), made advances toward him which he spurned. Angered by this the girl decided to get her own back and so she hid a silver cup in the boy’s bag before he left the hostel and then reported it missing. The boy and his parents were stopped and searched and the cup found in the boy’s pocession. The boy protested his innocence but was hung for the crime as his parents watched. They then carry on to Santiago (with great sadness you imagine) to continue with their pilgrimage.         On their return they passed by the gall...

The Pilgrimage came about because of the myth that St James preached in Spain. Although he was largely unsuccessful he then asked to be buried in Spain. His followers placed his body in a stone boat (which can still be seen in Muxia?). There were difficulties in this endeavour as it seems that the Spanish were none too keen to have the Saint buried on their land and refused his followers permission – the local Queen, Lupa, provided the team of oxen used to draw the body from Padrón to the site of the marble tomb a little way inland which she had also provided but the oxen proved to be unruly beasts who had not been tamed and so could not be yoked yet, once the sign of the cross had been made over them, they were docile and pulled the cart with the Saint’s body upon it with ease. The site of his tomb was then forgotten for some 800 years. After the fall of the Roman Empire Spain was ruled by the Moors against whom the Spanish rose up with Saint James at their head literally - in 813...

I love collect sellos (stamps) as I walk - it's great once the hospitelero has stamped your credential to spend just a second inspecting it before you go to find your bed. They are all so beautiful and different and a wonderful way to record your journey and experiences which is why I will get one from every bar that I stop in for a snack or eat at as well as going into Churches when they are open to get theirs. And if I get all cultural on the Camino and go in museums I will get their as well and then when I get home, before I show off all of my pictures, I will show everyone my sellos and we will all admire them. They are beautiful,  free to collect and, more importantly, they weigh nothing  - what's not to love?! These are all of my sellos from 2013: admire and enjoy!

After walking on the Camino six times now I'm certain that it can gt under your skin, that something about it keeps pulling you back so that once is often not enough. Friends that me and Becky made two years ago, who swore that they were walking for their last time, have just returned and another friend we made this year has just reached Samos on his second Camino of the year! And me and Becky are planing another Camino (although this one will be on the Portuguese route rather than the Frances). So if it is possible to become 'addicted' to the Camino what would be the 'symptoms' of this? 1. A desire to walk everywhere even though the buses are quicker. And you have a car, why not just drive? 2. Upon seeing a yellow arrow you are seized by an urge to follow it wherever it leads 3. When a cyclist passes you you want to shout out 'Buen Camino!' loudly (I actually have had to stop myself a few times!) 4. Checking people's backpacks for badges or patch...

Summer is the busiest time on the Camino and the hottest. It’s when a lot of Spanish people walk, particularly the young who see it as a cheap holiday so finding a bed can be a problem, I've heard that some people do have to sleep outside.        Easter week was noticeably busier on the Camino this year as people took advantage of the holiday to walk.         March-May is when I have done two Caminos and it can be nice to see the spring flowers coming out but you cannot be guaranteed warm weather.        My other three Caminos have been in September when the Camino is quieter and the weather has not become too cold.        If you go out of summer then know that not all albergues will be open, check your guidebook (which, from experience, may not always be right!).        The graph (all information for which comes f...

For the past two years me and Becky have gone on Camino in late September and are missing it now - we both feel a bit 'Camino sick' at the moment and so my thoughts are going to our last Camino and to my Compostela which I thought that I would share with you all. This translates as: The Chapter of this Holy Apostolic Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint James, custodian of the seal of Saint James’ Altar, to all faithful and pilgrims who come from everywhere over the world as an act of devotion, under vow or promise to the Apostle’s Tomb, our Patron and Protector of Spain, witnesses in the sight of all who read this document, that: Mr/Mrs/Ms…………………has visited devoutly this Sacred Church in a religious sense (pietatis causa). Witness whereof I hand this document over to him, authenticated by the seal of this Sacred Church. Given in Saint James of Compostela on the (day) (month) (year) A.D.

We keep thinking about walking a different Camino - there are a few to chose from so I've been doing some research on which are the most popular Caminos to walk; one of the best parts of the Camino is being able to meet people from all over the world so we don't want to walk where no one at all does! The Frances is definitely the most popular route to walk! The 'other Caminos' part is not the Finisterra route as the Cathedral doesn't class that as a Camino.

I'm not an artist - there's a reason why I studied Engineering and not art but these pictures are ones that even I can do so they must be simple! Start off with a square of cardboard - 10cmX10cm (for those who use the Imperial system sorry, I have no idea how big that is sorry!) Find a picture of the Cathedral that you like and draw a very rough outline of its shape I think that you can make that out! Then paint over this in white paint, go outside the lines as well so that they're covered up Don't worry about the brushstrokes being visible, it looks better if you can see them Wait for it to dry and then draw the Cathedral's outline in black pen And now fill in the details This isn't my best example maybe but it looks pretty cool! The Botafumero looks good too Or a different view of the Cathedral    Or a (badly drawn) Waymarker  

So what do you do after you finish walking? After my first Camino I do remember waking up and looking around me at the curtains and thinking, 'Huh, these curtains in this albergue look just like my curtains at home!' What do you do when you get home though? Well you still see yellow arrows and follow them: or else you just look for them everywhere. And you look for Scallop shells as well (fewer of these about than there are arrows) And you look everywhere for Churros and chocolate - I found some in Wales! You also wonder why everyone is no longer talking about their feet all of the time and actually miss the snoring!! What do other people miss about the Camino?

The first in an occasional series of crafts on the Camino. This one is painting shells! Firstly gather your supplies: scallop shells, paint (I used acrylic paints and they worked well), water to wash your brushes and brushed (I used the ones that I paint mini figures with)  To start with I did a Union Flag shell: Just one idea - I did a few others as below: A few more ideas for you! If you did them before you went and then varnished them then you could wear them on your bag! Will also look good as decorations or on cards

I thought that it would be interesting to take pictures of all of my equipment for the Camino for you guys to see - I know that a lot of people make lists for others but not many show everyone what they take. Please remember I'm not a photographer! I have only ever walked in September and March-May, requirements at other times of the year will be different. Here goes:

Is this a possible new way to do the Camino?!

In 2010 I walked to Finisterra. This is the certificate: The sunset over Finisterra is in the certificate’s centre and the Scallop shell, symbol of the Camino and often collected from the beaches in Finisterra, can be seen.         The four corners depict the symbols of the four evangelists: an angel for Matthew, a lion for Mark, an ox for Luke and an Eagle for John. A rough translation is: ‘The concello of Finisterra certifies that (name) reached the Coast of death and the finish of the way of Saint James’

I have been asked often about how many women walk on the Camino and the answer is quite a few! In fact in 2012 43.5% of those who achieved their Compostela were female, not bad going especially when you put it into perspective of the World situation for women  - only 1% of the world's land is owned by women, women only hold 18.2% of parliamentary seats worldwide and women make up just 17.3% of FTSE 100 board directors. That's quite some inequality in the world and when you consider that girls are twice as likely to be illiterate as boys it's not a situation that's likely to be changing that soon. Today I'm at the Writes for Women event in Nottingham which is hoping to raise some awareness of gender equality as part of Nottingham Women's Fringe where we've all chosen our own projects and goals to write for; I'm doing mine for Nottingham's Rape Crisis Centre where trained Counsellors and volunteer support workers provide face to face councelling, edu...

A little article in the town magazine:

Albergues are the usual place to stay I would not advise this: And yes I did sleep in that box for one night but in England and for charity

I've been looking back through my photos of the Camino and thought I'd post some pictures of the type of things that you eat whilst walking A selection of bread for breakfast one morning Churros and chocolate! Churros is similar to donut batter and the chocolate is a hot chocolate that is as thick as custard - yummy! Eating Churros and chocolate Galician soup - potatoes, beans, ham and cabbage Cake because who can walk without eating cake? More churros and chocolate - okay, so maybe I like this just a bit O'Cebreiro cheese and honey Patatas bravas Tortilla Not exactly a full selection I know! Me and Becky usually cooked our own food which was pasta with tomato sauce or soft cheese and tuna or some meat. Sandwiches were the usual for dinner. Pilgrim meals tended to be: salad, pasta or soup to start; pasta, fish or meat with chips (rarely potatoes) for the main and the pudding was yoghurt, fruit or cake. Not much var...

There are traditions when you reach Santiago: hugging the Apostle, kneeling before the casket and then putting your hand on the Tree of Jesse on the Portico de Gloria  However this is no longer allowed when you get to Santiago - there's a rail all around the area but if you live in the UK there is a possible alternative (that you still cannot touch but you can get close to) at the Victoria and Albert museum. The Victorians liked to do plaster copies of many sites and the copy of the Portico was made in 1866 by a team from the South Kensington Museum (as the V and A was then known) and its display and, along with a serious of photos by Charles Thurston Thompson, helped to raise awareness in the UK. At its opening it was said to be a, 'glory of the museum'. A visit is a great chance to see what the Portico looks like as the actual Portico is surrounded by a lot of scaffolding at the moment that makes it difficult to see anything. I didn't take any pictures of...

Back in 2011 me and Becky wrote a list of things that we found annoying on the Camino. Here it is: Bag rustlers - the people who get up at four in the morning and then spend the next hour in the room packing their things away in the noisiest plastic bags in the world Snorers - those who are like an orchestra all by himself ... like Dad who got a cold on the Camino that make his snoring so bad that the only other person in our room swore at him in German, stormed out of the room and spent the rest of the night sleeping ng on the sofa in the kitchen. He left me and Becky laughing and Dad sleeping on oblivious! Cyclists who approach you silently and then almost run you over - get a bell, say, 'Buen Camino,' or just, 'hi,' anything at all so that we know you're coming and don't have to dive off the path out of your way! People who wait until the lights are off to switch on and play with their phones - at home we probably all text in bed or check on Facebook ...

I was recently asked to write 120 words and mine and Becky's Camino to people who had never heard anything about it - 120 words to describe over 30 days worth of walking across a country! It actually turned out being 123 words (I was working on the plus or minus 10% from College) but here it is: Santiago de Compostella in Spain is the resting place of Saint James, one of the 12 Apostles, and has been a site of pilgrimage for hundreds of years – to receive the Compostella certificate one has to ride a bike or horse 200km or walk 100km - although some people walk a much greater distance, like the 800km my sister Becky and I walked from France to arrive in Santiago.         Walking, we covered three mountains and had knee high snow as well as nearly 30 o C days as we went 20-30km per day and met people from such diverse countries as America, Mexico, New Zealand and South Africa.         After 32 days, we...

Article on mine and Becky's Camino! http://www.thisisderbyshire.co.uk/Walker-sisters-finish-500-mile-Santiago-pilgrim/story-19464039-detail/story.html

Remembering walking on Camino with Becky as I sit here - all the fun that we had together. It's strange - we haven't lived together for probably five years or so but on the Camino we fell right back into step with each other (can't quite decide if I mean that pun or not!) and just got along. I know that some people have issues with their walking companions but after growing up together we knew each other well. when we were little perhaps this meant that we knew how to annoy each other but as adults it meant that we knew when to give each other space, how to walk together and yet be silent or how to sing together as we climbed mountains. A brilliant journey to share with a wonderful person.